Hi Readers! 

I am so so happy to be back. My family is double vaxxed, and we are ready to get back into the world. As an epidemiologist, it is very encouraging to see COVID infection rates falling. We chose to travel to Puerto Rico for Memorial Day Weekend because I wanted a warm destination, but was worried about COVID rates in FL at the time of booking. Additionally, PR has a Chabad where you can order food and attend Shabbat services. 

A Disclaimer: While PR is extremely COVID-conscious, I do not believe that the Island itself is ready for so many travelers. In 2017, Hurricane Maria devastated PR (along with many other places in the Carribean) and they have not completely recovered. Therefore, COVID was an even bigger hit. The reason PR is so COVID-conscious is they do not have much hospital capacity, so if they had many cases, they would not be able to treat them so easily. 

Now, with that said, PR still has some very cool attractions, and luckily has a Chabad and lovely weather all year round. 

Flights:

We flew into San Juan from Boston on May 27th in the afternoon (this was a Thursday). We used Jetblue, and arrived at around 8pm. One of the best things we did was bringing a checked bag full of kosher snacks, as it is not so easy to find these on the island (more on that later). Because our flight was completely packed (holiday weekend), we were able to check the bag for free at the gate as an incentive not to bring the bag as a carry-on. Like many great Jewish women before me, I packed kosher sandwiches for the airport and grabbed a starbucks coffee as well. Just note that the TSA may be interested in your food. 

Upon arrival, the PR health department will check that you have properly uploaded your vaccination status and/or COVID testing results to their traveler portal. They generate a barcode and they scan it to let you out of the airport. More info here: https://www.discoverpuertorico.com/info/travel-guidelines 

Hotel:

We stayed at the Fairmont El San Juan in Isla Verde which is about a 20 minute ride from Old San Juan. Conveniently, this hotel is 5 mins from the airport. We were also able to get a really good rate through the Chabad coupon code that they list on their website: https://www.jewishpuertorico.com/. The El San Juan is not the only hotel listed. They have many hotels with coupon codes including the Royal Sonesta (formerly Intercontinental) next door. Another option for those who would like a kitchen in-unit is the ESJ towers (also in that area, and owned by a Jewish family). 

To be quite honest, this hotel was packed with Americans who were partying the entire time. Lots of people were drunk in the public spaces, and so we would not go back. For families, I might try the Royal Sonesta or ESJ towers. 

Food:

We ordered many of our meals from Chabad in San Juan, which was a 5 minute walk from our hotel. It was a very convenient location, but the hours were not so great. By the time we landed at 8pm, Chabad was closed, and so we could not grab dinner. Additionally, they are not open until about 12pm, so we were not able to get breakfast either. This is why we chose to bring our suitcase full of kosher snacks, and boy, were we happy we did! We loaded up at Trader Joe’s on granola bars, nuts, cookies and crackers before our trip. We also froze sliced cheese, put it in a cooler bag, and stuck it in our food suitcase. Lastly, we were there for shabbos, so we brought 2 bottles of wine in bubble wrap (https://www.amazon.com/Wine-Wings-Reusable-Protector-Luggage/dp/B01F6CDE40/ref=asc_df_B01F6CDE40/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198100853899&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2167717081400846841&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002058&hvtargid=pla-413984963277&psc=1).

We had our food delivered to us at around 4pm on Friday after we were back from exploring. The hotel has fridges in the room, so I piled everything in there, and we had food for the next 3 days. We were able to get shabbos food (challah, entrees, sides, dessert) as well as food for the week. Additionally, if you go to Chabad during their daytime hours, you can get a limited number of hot lunch dishes available for takeout. They do not currently have dining-in at Chabad because of COVID restrictions. 

*a note: the El San Juan does not let Chabad drop the food with security or the front desk, so you need to be available to pick it up from the front yourself. With 20-20 hindsight, I can say it was much more convenient to walk over and pick up. 

The hotel is also somewhat difficult about heating. They charge a $75 fee to store your food in their kitchen, and a $25 fee any time you want them to heat your food. This is another reason I might choose ESJ towers, as you would have your own kitchen. We ate our food cold to avoid any mixups in the kitchen with our food because the hotel was at maximum capacity during our stay. 

In terms of a supermarket, there is a 24-hour Pueblo near the hotel (about a 7 min walk). They have some basic American food products there, however, they will not have some of your regular brands for milk and bread. We found one brand of Kosher bread and after much research, I determined that since they are part of the USA, the plain milk was Kosher (Chalav Stam, check with your own LOR). 

We were told that Anita Gelato in Old San Juan is Kosher, but unfortunately, when we arrived, the people behind the counter told us it was not true (Hoping I can go get some in NY one day). 

Activities:

This was my favorite part of the trip. We went to El Yunque rainforest on Friday morning with a wonderful tour guide, Marcy Schub (PM for details). Marcy is part of the Jewish community in PR, and came highly recommended by Chabad. Additionally, her prices were very reasonable, and she included private transportation in her car. The ride from Isla Verde to El Yunque is about 45 minutes. We enjoyed speaking with Marcy about the history of the forest, and about her background in the PR Jewish community. She toured us around on a few trails, and we were able to see some incredible natural beauty and views. She also let us stop at the Chabad to tour their building. When we got back to the hotel, we took some much needed time at the beach. 

Shabbat was as expected. We ate the Chabad food in our room overlooking the nice view of the ocean, and spent lots of time reading on the beach. One of the most helpful tools we have used is the Shabbat Away Travel Kit: https://www.theshabbatcollection.com/products/shabbat-away-travel-kit. It is TRULY a lifesaver for anyone who is Shabbat-observant (includes candle holders, matches, wine flask, challah cover, salt shaker, bencher, kippah, and havdalah set) and it fits in any bag. Whenever we needed to be let into our room with an electric key card, hotel security was happy to assist. 

On Sunday, we did not do much in the way of activities, but we did go to the hotel spa which I cannot say enough good things about! I got a tension release massage which was amazing and relaxing. The views of the pool and ocean from the top floor are excellent. 

On Monday, we took an uber into Old San Juan and toured around El Moro. It was $10 a person for entry, and we came at 10am which was a very good time both from a weather and crowd perspective. The fort is an architectural beauty with sweeping views of the ocean and city below. If you are sensitive to the sun, I would pile on the sunscreen and wear a hat because I even got burned in my scalp! After touring El Moro, we walked around Old San Juan. The city is so beautiful and almost feels like you are in a European town. We searched for some famous Puerto Rican coffee, but we were not the only ones doing so! So many Americans were waiting in line at the coffee shops. However, I heard this cafe has good coffee: https://cuatrosombras.com/. After buying some trinkets for our family, we hopped into another uber and went back to the hotel to eat lunch and then get on the plane. 

Dear Reader,

This post comes at a sensitive time when Italy, unfortunately, is in the thick of the Coronavirus Pandemic. My heart goes out to all of its people, especially those who helped us during our travels. It is my intention, after this hardship is over, to return and celebrate life-especially the wonderful life that is in Italy. By visiting and supporting businesses, maybe we can help their economy, even if just a bit. This post comes with so much love for an absolutely incredible destination, and was written in partnership with my mother, Alice, who has the same love for Italy. Together, we have been three times; and for my parent’s 25th anniversary, they returned for a fourth (to Naples and Capri). These are our top picks. Happy virtual traveling for now, and real traveling when our world is in a better place!

Rome

Hotels:

1. Hotel Monte Cenci: https://www.montecenci.com/

Very very close to the ghetto which is nice, and also they can get you kosher breakfast on request at their rooftop. Short walk to Great Synagogue, which is good for Shabbat. Bring passport to their office before shabbat. 

From my mother on kosher breakfast at Monte Cenci:

“The concierge at the hotel when we last stayed was Eleonora Sambuchi. You can reach them at concierge@montecenci.com. I would mention that you would like kosher breakfast from one of the very closeby ghetto restaurants (it’s generally pastries and rolls). You can also see if they still keep a kosher frypan in the kitchen for making scrambled eggs in olive oil. The main breakfast includes coffee, yogurt (YOMO brand plain and strawberry was on the kosher list–please check online to see if they still are), and fruit. There is a breakfast room on the 6th floor or the terrace in good weather (also 6th floor) .”

Here is the aforementioned kosher list: http://www.italykosherunion.it/old/Kosher%20food%20list-en.html

2. This hotel is literally inside the ghetto, but I have never been, so I cannot vouch for how nice it is despite the good reviews: https://www.ht6roma.com/

Food:

Dairy: 

1. Yotvata (my favorite one)- homemade cheeses, pasta, pizza, desserts. 

2. Baghetto Milky- a little overrated but obviously still good. Would pick yotvata over it. Order their cheese platter which comes with different cheeses, jams, and honey. The fried Jewish artichoke is also great. 

3. Cremaria Romana- the absolute BEST gelato in the entire world. My favorite is the chocolate hazelnut. They also have parve flavors for when you go out for meat

4. Pasticceria Ebraica Boccione- really awesome bakery. Gets cleaned out early so if you really want their stuff, you gotta get in there
5. Alice pizza- really good simple Roman pizza. Not typical slices like in NY. More like a pan pizza with really cool toppings. Note-this is a chain and the only one that is kosher is in the ghetto

Meat:

1. Bellacarne- my favorite meat restaurant. They also let you sign up for shabbat meals which are so fun. 
2. Baghetto- definitely good but overrated
3. Su’ghetto- you can special request a cooking class with them which is AMAZING. We had such a blast and they taught us how to make fresh pastas with truffles. 

Just a reminder that not all the restaurants in the Rome ghetto are kosher. I think there is one that even advertises as kosher style, but does not have a teudah. 

Here’s a comprehensive list- https://www.totallyjewishtravel.com/kosherrestaurants-TJ920-Rome_Italy-Kosher_Eateries.html

Activities:

1. Golf Cart Tour- this was super fun. The driver takes you all around Rome and shows you the major sites. They also take you to see sweeping views of the city. Love this. Here is the contact info:

Roberto Contursi

mail ​roberto@tours-europe.com cell. ​+ 39-335-5252852

web ​www.tours-europe.com 

2. Great Synagogue- a must see. I would take the tour, but also daven there. They have a choir with funny hats and they daven in a different nusach. It will be warm in there, so dress accordingly. Women normally sit upstairs in the Ezrat Nashim women’s area while men are downstairs. You must have a passport to get inside and expect to go through a metal detector. My brother recommends that you attend seudah shlishit for the canapes and small bites for which he gives a thumbs up.

3. Arch of Titus

The arch commemorates the sack of Jerusalem and destruction of the Temple in the 1st century. On return to Rome from Judea, Titus erected this arch which features details of Romans carrying treasure including the Menorah in a triumphal parade. Historically, Roman Jews avoided crossing under the arch or spit nearby. Today, the center part is roped off, but you can get up to the edge for a victorious look.

4. Jewish museum- really cool, but also like a typical jewish museum. I would get an audio guide. This is a dispensable activity- like cool if you can get to it, but not a must see. However, my mom thinks it’s a must see if you’re going to the shul.

5. Colosseum walking tour- I liked doing this at night because it was cooler out and less crowded. We bought tickets online through Dark Rome. The tour involves a great deal of walking, and also allows you to go down to the floor of the Colosseum and the slave quarters in the basement. Seeing it at night was far more dramatic than visiting in the daytime. (We’ve done both)

6. Shopping in Piazza Colonna-tourist central watch your bag 

7. Spanish steps- a classic

8. Trevi Fountain- Don’t sit on the edge of the pool! Carabinieri nearby will scold you

9. Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli– (if you are comfortable going into a church) has the classic Moshe statue. Might be part of the golf cart tour, though. 

Tuscany (Florence, Cantina Guiliana)

Hotels:

1. Hotel in florence: https://www.sinahotels.com/en/h/sina-villa-medici-florence/

Food:

1. Cantina Guiliano (1 hour from Florence)- a family run, small kosher winery and restaurant in a small town in Tuscany. Everything you could ever want from an Italian restaurant. You can also take a tour of their winery. 

Address: Via Croce, 3, 56035 Casciana Alta PI, Italy 

http://cantinagiuliano.com/en/

        Their menu changes based on seasonality, as it is all grown locally, and prepared by the           family and a small amount of help. 

2. http://www.kosheruth.com/ – Ruth’s kosher restaurant Florence. 

Florence Kosher section in supermarket (around the corner from Ruth’s): Carrefour Carducci

Activities:

1. Great Synagogue of Florence- https://www.bh.org.il/tempio-maggiore-great-synagogue-florence/

2. “The David”

3. Artisanal Leather Institute-Scuola del Cuoio 

https://leatherschool.biz/en/

4. Duomo (Florence’s Cathedral- if you are comfortable going into a church)

5. Piazza della Signoria

6. Artisanal Shops around Ponte Vecchio 

Venice

Hotel:

Ca Sagredo Hotel- Old Palazzo turned hotel. Very old and fancy, but a bit stuffy. 10 min walk to Jewish ghetto and shuls which becomes important because Venice only has water taxis that are exorbitant. Walking will be your main way to get around. 

https://www.casagredohotel.com/?Hotelnames=ITVNCASagredo&d=30d-xppc&partner=FB-PACK-PPC-15&campaignId=629783888|31466754555|kwd-kwd-11138894897&device=c&network=google&gclid=Cj0KCQjwx7zzBRCcARIsABPRscPaMp5GYAVo2410Uw0odlxWRPyU9mXrxaV7krNs9vADBW4uSt5MdWkaAuX5EALw_wcB

Food:

Dairy:

1. Ghimel Garden (unclear if still open)-https://ghimelgarden.com/ 
2. Venice kosher bakery-Panificio Giovanni Volpe- 1143 Calle Ghetto Vecchio
3. Gam Gam Goodies- Pizza @ 1242 Calle Ghetto Vecchio

Meat:

4. Gam Gam 

Shul:

http://jvenice.org/en/spanish-synagogue– original sefardic synagogue run by the community of venice. Strict security-get to shul on time and bring your passports, or you may be denied access. 

https://www.jewishvenice.org/– chabad runs services and Gam Gam, which can be reserved for shabbos meals. 

Activities:

1. St. Mark’s Cathedral (if you are comfortable going into a church)
2. Walking tour of the city
3. Gondola Ride
4. Aqua Alta bookshop- a book store that keeps its books in gondolas off the floor in case of flooding
5. Window shopping in costume stores-Venice was known for its residents wearing masks, and now it is part of the city’s culture. Find recreations in shops along the canals.
6. Grand Canal
7. Rialto Bridge

Naples (by Alice Lebowitz)

A note about Naples: Naples is Italy’s second largest city after Rome and it is gritty and tough, although has surprisingly good bones underneath the grit. Naples is also the ancestral home of the Mafia and famed for its street crime. Neopolitans are known for their anarchical beliefs and are traditionally gruff. All the Neopolitans we met through our hotel and as guides were lovely people who made us feel welcome in their city. However, we were advised to take certain precautions, which we followed carefully–leave all (real or fake) gold jewelry at home including watches. My swatch sufficed. We also kept cash in our pockets so as not to expose wallets or passports. I wore a small crossbody bag and my hand never left the zipper.  We only walked in questionable neighborhoods with a guide who was known by the locals and we did not venture out at night.

Hotels:

Grand Hotel Parker Naples

https://en.grandhotelparkers.it/https://en.grandhotelparkers.it/

2. Have not stayed here, but if you are staying in Naples over Shabbat, this hotel is a 3 minute walk to shul, and 15 min walk to chabad: Palazzo Alabardieri, Via Alabardieri, 38, 80121 Napoli NA, Italy

http://www.palazzoalabardieri.it/en. Looks very decent, and also good price. 

3. https://www.kosherinnapoli.com/kosher-napoli/– Chabad also has a kosher BnB run by the same couple who made our food. 

Food:

Find this bread at: Conad Sapori Dintorni , Via Alabardieri 8, Naples (near shul)

This is pretty much the only fresh kosher food available in Naples. It was some of the best bread we’ve ever eaten and that big beautiful loaf cost only a euro and a half! (Bread is subsidized by the government) Our guide from the synagogue tour explained that the Naples Rabbi gives hashgacha to the local supermarket bakery because it is the only way for the local community to have kosher bread. Only bread listed on the teudah on the bakery counter is kosher. Men working at the counter know which bread is supervised and will guide you by pointing. They do not speak much English. No rolls or baguettes or pastries, so don’t fall in love. They’re all pretty gorgeous.  Also, if you look around, you will find Hero Jam, and a few brands of boxed cookies or condiments with hashgacha. I also found two kinds of Dalla Costa brand penne pasta with an OK. By the way, this specialty grocery store features local products from the Naples region. Don’t make the mistake I did in trying to locate chocolate. I asked the counterman for Perugina chocolate (which occasionally has kosher supervision). He almost took my head off, screaming at me in rapid fire Italian. I’m pretty sure he said something like,”You dummy. We don’t sell Perugina here. That’s from Perugia. This is Naples!” I didn’t take it too personally. Neapolitans are a little like Israelis. They are tough on the outside and sweet on the inside.

https://www.kosherinnapoli.com/ –

chabad of Napoli- order ahead for meal deliveries. 

We ordered meals from Chabad of Naples and stayed at The Grand Hotel Parkers, which is midway up the giant hill above the Bay of Naples. It is an old hotel which is not new and glitzy, but rather traditional and stately. We were treated very well by the staff during our late July 2019 stay and they even upgraded us to a duplex room overlooking the water. The really nice part was that the hotel staff seemed to understand the concept of kosher and didn’t make us feel strange or awkward about having special food delivered to the hotel. They served our breakfast in the breakfast room on the top floor and dinner in the first floor restaurant, storing the new day’s food (pre-wrapped and sealed in the restaurant fridge). Each day, when we entered for the meal, they greeted us and put our food in for heating.  The waiters were extremely gracious and treated us as if we were ordering from the menu. They checked on our needs throughout the meal and were even swift to clear away our foil and wrappings.. We ordered breakfast for a few days which included pastries, omelettes (double wrapped in foil), chalav yisroel milk, and fruit. For a few extra dollars, Chabad supplied wine with our dinner as well as cake and we brought our fresh bread to the table. We ordered San Pellegrino water and sodas at each meal and made sure to tip the waiters for all their help. Given that we were eating prepacked, wrapped food in a non kosher setting ,it was about as pleasant an experience as you could expect. The Italians really have respect for family and tradition (as well as food) and they treated us like honored guests. We supplemented our meals with a fresh fruit basket in our room (preordered through the concierge). The fruit was beautiful and choice with some of the best kiwis I’ve ever tasted.

Activities:

1. Naples Shul- http://www.napoliebraica.it/wordpress/

You must have passports with you and contact them in advance to enter.

2. Herculaneum- (15 min from Naples). Ancient resort city of wealthy Romans which was destroyed by Vesuvius. Smaller and more intact than the better known Pompeii, Herculaneum has details such as original paint, tiles, furniture, and even roofing. The most fascinating part included a shop that still had barrels and even graffiti. 

3. Pompeii- (45 min from Naples) with Vesuvius in the background

4. Bay of Naples (view from window of hotel)

5. Paestum (1.5 Hours away from Naples) (former Greek colony)We hired a car and driver for our visit to Paestum, a former Greek colony. Our guide, Sabrina and our driver were phenomenal. We used Sabrina on a previous trip as a Pompeii guide and she was very skilled at engaging our group from ages 13 to 85. Her English is excellent and she is also a practical person. She knew about our kosher needs and suggested that on the ride back to Naples they take us to the supermarket where we bought the bread so that we could get some additional kosher food. She also knew about the bread, even though she isn’t Jewish! 

6. Naples Archeological Museum

http://www.museoarcheologiconapoli.it/en/

Capri (an Island off the coast about an hour and a half by ferry or an hour by Hydrofoil)– By Danielle Kampler and Alice Lebowitz

You can get a ferry from Naples to Capri at the boat terminal. Ticket counters are to the right and boats run about every hour. I bought our tickets well in advance online through SNAV. On the day we departed for Capri, SNAV wasn’t running the boat at our ticketed time. The agent converted our reservation for another line and rebooked us for the next boat out.  Be mindful though, the water can be VERY choppy. Although our boat over from Naples was fairly smooth, during our four night stay on the Island, the waters became very unsettled as a storm raged over Naples. It seemed basically clear from atop Capri with some minor (we thought) white caps in the distance. However, the Island shut down as those waves turned to 9 foot swells and all boat traffic was halted. Again, we didn’t understand until our morning of departure. When the boats reopened, there was a rush to get aboard. Our hotel was invaluable in getting us rebooked on the first boat out. Although we were lucky to have more settled stomachs (in part because our early departure left no time for breakfast), our fellow passengers, including tough, burly old Italian men, spent the better (or worse) part of our boat ride with their heads in plastic bags suffering through raging sea sickness. Mercifully, the motion ceased when we reached the Naples port.

Forgetting that incident, we had a fabulous time on Capri. Like any remote paradise, you have to work to get there. There was the aforementioned boat ride. On disembarking in the marina, you need to walk along the pier. If you have pre arranged luggage pickup with your hotel, drop your bags with the clerk and head to the funicular ticket stand at the end to the right. Some hotels even give you complimentary funicular tickets. After purchasing tickets, you go to the funicular turnstiles and wait until the clerks waive you in. You might need to wait one or two cycles before you can board. At the top of the funicular, disembark and come outside to enjoy the spectacular view. Behind you is the piazzetta (the unofficial living room of Capri). Everything is on foot from here. Our hotel was less than a ten minute walk from the center of things. We chose the Tiberio Palace because it has a great kosher restaurant (open seasonally from May to early Fall–check the website) and Shabbat meals. Sometimes there is even a minyan (although probably not a Torah). We were also celebrating a 25th anniversary and were up for a splurge. It is possible to stay at another place and still eat Shabbat meals or weekday lunch/dinner at the hotel. However, special services like a takeaway picnic for touring and the surprisingly good pareve breakfast are limited to hotel guests. Other options for a stay on Capri include the Hotel Quisisiana (a SINA Hotel) that has great views and beautiful tiled rooms and terraces. We met up with an acquaintance who was staying there and reported it was much cheaper than Tiberio Palace and still quite lovely. She ate her Shabbat meals with us at the meat and pareve buffet of pre-cooked dishes at the Tiberio Palace. The food was plentiful and offered a nice selection of Italian Jewish specialties including appetizers, salads, main courses, and dessert. Challah and wine completed the meal. Saturday’s meal was more of the same but also included morning cake and coffee breakfast for hotel guests. We then took a three hour walk/hike around the island with the friend we ran into from back home. She had an adventurous streak and like an energetic personal trainer (read: army general) pushed us to climb and explore the Capri half of the island (the other half is called Anacapri and is more residential and less luxurious). Capri is built on a huge rock that juts out of the sea and has hundreds of steep steps up and down the vertical landscape like a demonic stairmaster. There are numerous promontory outlooks hidden in the landscape and the three of us kept interrupting annoyed amorous couples who were looking for a romantic spot to take in the views (and in one case possibly propose!)That evening, we were wiped out from our climb. The kosher restaurant opened for business after Havdalah and surprisingly we still had an appetite to sit down for dinner. Afterwards, I went out shopping in the local boutiques which were open until midnight. Capri parties hard, and there were revelers out all night, long after the shops closed. With most of the tourist daytrippers gone, there were no lines and I was able to shop souvenirs for my friends and family. On Sunday, we sat around the hotel and relaxed on our terrace (we were still wasted from the previous day’s climb) while the island was doused in showers in the aforementioned storm.

Hotel/Food:

1. Capri Tiberio Palace-https://www.capritiberiopalace.it/en/index.php

A wonderful anomaly-a beautiful hotel in Capri with incredible views and a kosher restaurant! There are also options for shabbat meals and minyanim (depending on the time of year). 

Activities:

1. Blue Grotto-It’s important to get there early in order to beat the lines. Be aware that if there is a tide issue or a storm, the boats will shut down. A larger boat takes you around the island and then you get into rowboats for the trip into the rocks where the light makes the water an intense blue. We missed it both times–once as daytrippers to the island and the other during this stay when the storm nixed our grotto tour.
2. Shopping

One really interesting store is Isaia Shatnez Free Menswear (Naples and Capri). This is a

Shatnez certificate from Isaia men’s clothing store. The clothes are magnificent but require a second mortgage on your home. This is really high end menswear. The ties are also gorgeous and slightly more affordable.

3. Mount Solaro- beautiful views
4. Piazza Umberto–the living room of Capri. All the beautiful people come for lunch (not kosher) or drinks (maybe). You can people watch from nearby or take a chair and have a soda or coffee.
5. Haven’t done this one, but if I had more time, would have been great: https://www.jerantoboats.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwx7zzBRCcARIsABPRscOJFm6zhqOkfTGnnsu0p9-1ePxw_2ce6mA_gF_M_uooe5-aicuQmOwaAiVNEALw_wcB

To get up the mountain to the hotel, you will need to take the funicular. There is a ticket booth by the marina, and then a line by the actual funicular. If you want to pay top dollar, you can get a taxi to take you all the way up.

We hope you enjoyed this list of our favorites in Italy! Comment down below if you have any other suggestions, or where you want to #virtuallytravel next! Sending support and love to anyone quarantined right now, especially those in our greatly impacted Jewish community!

Part II of our honeymoon! This is going to be a long one because we spent 10 days in Israel, touring many different cities. Hope you all enjoy! Also, in other exciting news, my brother Alex (aka @koshbrioche) and I have collaborated on a new kosher travel instagram called @koshlings. It will feature a mix of our love of travel and kosher food and I hope you will check us out and follow! Now onto the good stuff……

We landed in Israel around 5pm on Thursday, December 26th. We decided to stay in Tel Aviv for the first night because it is not so far from the airport, and I wanted to try out Bluesky by Meir Adoni. Turns out, Israel was hit with the most rain they had all winter, and we got caught in a torrential downpour! After about two hours in the car to get to the hotel, we arrived at the Dan Tel Aviv. Honestly, I was not impressed with this hotel. Part of this was chance-we had rented the room with the beach view and got stuck on a rainy day. However, the room they upgraded us to for our honeymoon was way older and dirtier than any of their newer less expensive rooms. The hotel did make an effort to put out wine and chocolate, but the service was terrible (took 30 minutes for them to come upstairs and grab our bags upon checkout!) I will include pictures below, but now that I got that out of the way, I can rave about Bluesky in the Carlton Hotel.

Next time we stay in Tel Aviv, I would love to return to the Carlton. I stayed there over my Bat Mitzvah (10 years ago!) and it was incredible. Last year when I was in Israel, I went to the meat restaurant, Lumina by Meir Adoni, and it was just fabulous. Bluesky was equally as wonderful. They have lovely views of Tel Aviv from the top of the building, and they pay so much attention to detail. They serve breads and dips to start, and then start with the appetizers. We ordered their “Yellow Tomatoes Risotto” and Fish Tacos for appetizers, and their fish special for our main. It included sea bass with pesto, fresh ricotta and mozzarella, and tahini cream. We were so full, we did not even order dessert!

The next day, we moved on to Jerusalem for Shabbat. We arrived at the Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem in the morning and were greeted by the staff. They said our room was not ready, so we could have coffee on the house. The lobby and coffee area were very grand and beautiful.

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One thing we did not know, however, was that check in is at 3pm even when shabbat starts at 4pm in Jerusalem. This made for a bit of a stressful waiting period. I highly suggest requesting an early check-in (which is what we did), but they can only provide it upon availability. Because the entire hotel was booked up, we waited until the last minute to get our room and get ready for shabbat. Once we gained access to our room, however, the wait was worth it! What an incredible room! We even had a porch with a view of the old city and around.

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Shabbat there was lovely. Our Friday night dinner was delicious and creative. However, their breakfast and Saturday lunch was not anything special. Our future hotels blew their food out of the water. More on that later. Their service was ok, but what really made this hotel was the luxury of the room. Something to note is that the shabbat environment is very yeshivish on shabbat.

On Sunday, December 29th, we headed out for a “fun day” package at the Isrotel Dead Sea. We were so lucky with the weather! It was 70 degrees Fahrenheit and sunny! The “fun day” package includes- access to the pool, beach, spa facilities, a massage, and lunch. I would not have stayed overnight, but a day trip was absolutely perfect. The Dead Sea hotels are sometimes disappointing, but the Isrotel was clean and provided nice services and pools. This is the nicest one I have seen, and competes with Hod Hamidbar across the street. The lunch was nothing special, as it was a typical Dead Sea hotel hot buffet, but it was tasty and convenient. Overall, we had a blast and enjoyed relaxing in the beautiful weather.

That night, we went on a shuk Machane Yehudah tour with Gavi Nelson (@eatingacrossisrael). He was AMAZING! He brought us to the Etrog Man for juice, Techina Hamelech for Tahini, a canafe store, a boureka store, jachnunbar, empanada store, sabich store, gelato and doughnut store. The food and the experience were incredible. I would definitely recommend him to anyone!

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On Monday morning, December 30, we started our day in Caeseria. We had a beautiful day with some sun, so we toured around the old port and ancient ruins of the city. Must see’s include the amphitheater, the old port, and the aqueduct! Jacob really enjoyed the history and I really enjoyed the views.

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Next, we went to Tishbi Winery in Zichron Yaakov. They have the BEST dairy restaurant and give a tour with a wine and chocolate tasting at the end. This has been one of my all-time favorite Israel attractions for years.

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Next, we started our somewhat long journey to our hotel-the Setai Galilee, which we would use to tour the north. The hotel is really something special. All the buildings are detached, and you can walk or ride by bicycle to get around. We had a villa with a Jacuzzi with amazing views. The grounds were not to be believed, and the service was great.

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On Tuesday, December 31st, we first visited Kibbutz Misgav Am. This Kibbutz has been instrumental in relations with Lebanon. It has incredible views and history. You can buy a 45 minute tour with one of the Kibbutz members, but make sure to get the price quoted beforehand. There is a different price if you book with a travel agent versus if you do not.

Then, we went to Olea Essence to learn about their olive oil and olive-based cosmetics making process. We had a tour guide who explained the whole process of how they save the black water from the olive after oil making and put it into their cosmetics. She did a demo with their exfoliation treatment, and then we got to taste 6 of their olive oils. Definitely geared towards tourists, but I had the best time!

Lastly, we went to the De Karina chocolate factory. This was a really family friendly activity as you learn about the chocolate making process, and then go on to taste and create your own truffles. Also a really great place to buy gifts for family!

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Our guide, Eli, who was our favorite person on this trip (besides each other!) took us to Har Bental to see views of Lebanon, Israel, and Syria. This was an important vantage point in the war with Lebanon. Unfortunately, there was no visibility at all, but the history was important and we had coffee at CoffeeAnnan, the coffeeshop on the top of the mountain.

That night, we went to Deck’s for dinner in Tiberius. This was a 30 minute drive from our hotel, but there were no good kosher restaurants directly around our hotel, so we decided to venture out on New Year’s Eve. Deck’s is a family-friendly restaurant with tons of fish and meat options. In the winter, their beautiful views are closed, and diners must eat in their Asian restaurant called Pagota. However, they offer both the Deck’s and the Pagoda menus, so you can pick what you like. They had some of the freshest sushi I have ever eaten! Their meat was ok, but definitely not the best I have ever had. Overall, the staff was friendly and I would go back.

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On Wednesday, January 1st, we started off our day early in Tzfat. A tour guide took us around to see the major sites and the synagogues. We went to the Abuhav Synagogue and Rav Karo’s Synagogue. Many were closed because of New Year’s, but our guide knew the area quite well and was able to help us get in. The synagogues were really well kept and beautiful. I enjoyed the candle shop where the artists had re-created many Jewish scenes from wax, the cheese shop where we were able to sample all types of Tzfat cheese, and the artist area.

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Next stop was a Tzfat restaurant that I had heard about from Great Kosher Restaurant foodies. Gan Eden restaurant was some of my favorite food that I ate while on this trip. Tucked away on a hillside, this restaurant is in an old house, and makes their food both creative and homey. We shared a salad platter with our driver Eli, and I had a sweet potato ravioli in goat cheese sauce, while Jacob had gnocchi with roasted vegetables and cheese. We bought some cheesecake for later and it was pretty monumental.

Next, we went to Marom Golan for an off-road Jeep Tour. Our Jeep driver showed us the border with Syria and explained some of the political implications. He also drove us through the agriculture, and showed us what used to be Syrian headquarters in Israel. Eli Cohen, the spy, had to go to that building to request a vacation to Chamat Gader with some Syrian officials. Therefore, there is a plaque on the wall to honor and remember him. We also were able to meet the UN peacekeepers from Fiji. I think Israel was quite the culture shock for them!

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The next day, Thursday, January 2, we woke up super early and went all the way from the Setai Galilee to Caliber 3, an IDF simulation and education center in Gush Etzion. The soldiers running the program explained the political situation in Israel and how the army combats terrorism. We were then able to shoot two types of guns with a very experienced instructor. Jacob was one happy camper! I will note, this is not an activity for small children. There are lots of loud noises and “scary situations,” which made many of the smaller children very upset.

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Next, we headed over to Gush Winery, a small winery nearby, where we had a tour, tasting, and lunch. I am sad to say it was not as good as Tishbi, but definitely not bad at all!

After spending some time with family in Efrat, we headed to Jerusalem to check into the King David Hotel. Because it was our honeymoon, we were upgraded to the Old City View suite which was very exciting! The King David is very old and somewhat stuffy, but the service and food were the best out of all of the hotels we stayed in, and we loved the old charm. We enjoyed reading all of the names of famous people who have stayed in the hotel written out on the floor.

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For dinner, we went to 1868, a restaurant closeby that specializes in creative food. I will say that this restaurant is not cheap, but they do make very delicious and creative dishes. It is sometimes a little “too” creative such as the tree decorated in olives that comes as a starter, or the small wooden benches on the wall to sit on, but once the food comes, none of that will matter. Jacob started with Sashimi, while I had a lamb tortellini. We both had different variations of steak and potatoes, and we finished off with a deconstructed plum tart for dessert.

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That Friday, Jacob and I took advantage of our clear schedule and explored the Old City and Ben Yehudah street. We started off by praying at the Kotel (Western Wall), and then went to Kadosh Bakery to pick up some incredible French pastries for Shabbat (they were not to be believed!) For lunch, we found a Kosher McDonald’s which made Jacob extremely happy! We puttered around, going into little stores such as a hat shop for me, Superpharm (always fun), and the Kippah Man. By the time Shabbat came in, we were exhausted!

This does not come as a shock, but the Shabbat food at the King David was absolutely incredible and we had a restful and peaceful Shabbat there.

On Saturday night, as a last hoorah, we went to the Eucalyptus, a restaurant not far from our hotel. We ordered the Shir Hashirim tasting menu and we were shocked at the amount of food they brought us. Everything was creative, delicious, and well thought out. By the time we got through the appetizers, we were full to bursting and asked them to pack up the rest (the main courses had not yet come). They looked at us as if we had two heads, but packed it up for us graciously. We then shared the food with cousins who stopped by before we headed to the airport at 2am.

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This was the trip of a lifetime, and I am so glad that I got to share it with my best friend/husband. We had so many incredible experiences, and I can’t wait to have many more!! Happy kosher traveling everyone!

First of all, happy new year to everyone! I am so glad to be starting a new year of kosher traveling and blogging! For our honeymoon, we went to Amsterdam and then Israel. Because we were gone for 2 weeks, this will be the Amsterdam portion of our trip. The Israel portion is on its way! 

The amazing part of this trip was not only spending time together as newlyweds, and experiencing a new culture, but also the kindness from the Jewish community that we received upon arrival. When we landed in Amsterdam at about 10pm on Sunday, December 22^nd, we realized that it was the first night of Chanukah and we had to light candles. The hotel staff would not let us light anywhere on the property, so I called Chabad of Amsterdam. We spoke with Rabbi Akiva Camissar who worked with us within our boundaries. Tired, hungry travelers are not eager to jump into a taxi and go to a different part of the city upon arrival! So low and behold, he calls me back and says that there is an Israeli man who sells non-kosher pizza around the corner from our hotel, and we should bring our menorah and candles to his shop and he would let us upstairs to light. Our new friend, Asher, happily let us light with him, and kept our menorah for us so that we would have them burn for the necessary 30 minutes. What an experience! For any Jewish Amsterdam inquiries, use Chabad as a resource! They were wonderful. 

We stayed at the NH Grand Krasnapolsky Hotel in Dam Square, the tourist area of Amsterdam. For reference, this is close to both the Red-Light District and the Royal Palace, and about 25-30 minutes from kosher food by uber (and a bit longer by tram). If you are not going for Shabbos, this hotel was a wonderful place to stay. If you are going for shabbos, you might want to think about staying in the Jewish area OR (take the road less traveled and) inquire about services at the Portuguese Synagogue. You can also order kosher shabbos food from Vos Caterers and Jacob’s Kosher Catering.

We walked everywhere! If you are more of the biking type, you can rent a bike, but we were a bit nervous to say the least. Bicyclists in Amsterdam always have the right of way, and can get very aggressive on the small streets! So, we made sure to walk carefully wherever we went. 

The hotel itself is very nice and tourist-friendly. The rooms are basic, but spacious (for Europe) and very clean. I ordered us kosher breakfasts from Vos Caterers, a kosher caterer in Amstelveen, and the hotel knew exactly what to do. We were able to eat breakfast like normal tourists in the beautiful dining hall, and then go about our day. This was convenient because of the distance of the kosher food from our hotel. I also learned that for those who accept Chalav Stam milk, regular milk is fine to drink, so we had lots of coffee! Pure fruit juice is also fine. 

Another plus was that breakfast consisted of wonderful local foods such as local cheese, lox, vegetables and fruits. We also got 3 fresh rolls each from Langerhuiz kosher food. We were so full on some days, we did not even need lunch. 

On Monday, December 23^rd, we started our day with a Jewish walking tour. It was about two hours, and our tour guide was incredibly knowledgeable and sweet. She took us through the Jewish history of Amsterdam, including memorials and significant spots for Jews throughout the ages. While we spoke about a lot of heavy holocaust topics, it was really worthwhile; especially if you are planning on visiting the Anne Frank House during your trip. The tour we did was through 360 Tours and our tour guide was named Selena. 

We ended the tour outside of the Anne Frank House at exactly the correct time. This is important to note because they will not even let you queue before your time slot. We purchased tickets 2 months in advance, as they go very quickly and are hard to get. 

As many of you know, Anne Frank’s diary is one of the most important books to come out of the Holocaust. By visiting the hiding spot, her story comes to life, and you can see a glimpse of what their day to day life was like. It was overall a very powerful visit, and a must-see in Amsterdam. 

We then went to the 9 Streets, an artisan shopping area, but did not find anything we wanted to buy. Instead, we were able to do more walking, and take nice photos by the canal!

After all the walking, we were a bit tired, so we stopped by a café for a cappuccino. This is not to be confused with coffee shops that sell Marijuana! Since weed is legal in Amsterdam, and we were staying in a very touristy areas, there were shops all over the place. However, we were able to find a regular café that just served coffee where we were able to hang out. Unfortunately, those cookies were not kosher!

Afterwards, we rested in our room, and then headed out to a Chanukah candle lighting in Dam Square by Chabad. There were so many Israelis I could not believe it! It was such a joyous and fun event which was very powerful as it sat next to former Nazi Headquarters. 

That night, we headed over to the Jewish area to eat at MeatMe Kosher. The restaurant was very clean and nice. Their menu is best described as Israeli with a Dutch Twist. 

On Tuesday, December 24^th, we started our day with a visit to the Royal Palace across the street. This is a must! The incredible palace is intricately decorated and still in use. Each room was full of beautiful art and décor. They provide you with a free audio guide that explains the purpose of the room and in what era it was decorated. Jacob’s favorite part was the painting of the Kohain Gadol in one of the living rooms. 

Next, we headed to the Rembrandt House. This is a recreation of the bourgeois house that bankrupted Rembrandt. The house itself is original, however, they have done their best to match the furniture and décor with models. Both Jacob and I felt that there wasn’t enough information on his history, and found it a bit boring. 

Next, we headed to Albert Cyup Market for souvenir shopping and lunch at Chabad’s Restaurant, Machane Yehudah. We loved the open-air market, and found something for everyone. Lunch was also really good. Their menu is Israeli and so are the staff! If you have somewhere urgent to be, I would not recommend going; but, if you have time to spare and want some good food in a convenient location, this is the place to go. 

After heading to the hotel to rest, we went out in the evening to Freddy’s Bar, a beautiful bar previously owned by the Heineken family in the Hotel De L’Europe. What an incredible hotel and bar experience! If you have the opportunity to splurge, this is the hotel to stay in. We had some fresh beer and enjoyed the twinkling lights set up.

We then headed over to MeatMe Kosher again, as the other kosher restaurants did not really appeal to us. They also allowed us to light Chanukah candles with them. Overall, the kosher foodie scene in Amsterdam seems to be non-existent. I will note that the other restaurants include: Golan, Pizza and Co., Rimon Deli, and Hacarmel. Sadly, two of the good restaurants, H. Baron and Sal Mejir Sandwiches closed before our visit. However, my brother, the kosher foodie king, will be visiting all the kosher shops during his trip this summer, and I will update if he finds anything good! 

On Wednesday, December 25^th, we decided to sleep in, and start our day a little later at the Van Gogh Museum. I loved how this museum really explained Van Gogh’s life and career, and set up his paintings as phases in his life. It showed how Van Gogh used art to battle his inner demons and create something beautiful. 

Later, we headed to the Heineken Factory for their tour/experience. This is geared towards the tourist! But, it was really fun. With your ticket, you get a guided tour, access to their virtual bottling experience, a beer tasting, and 2 beers at their bar in the end. We enjoyed buying personalized beer bottles as souvenirs for our dads! Additionally, their beer is really fresh so it tastes better than in the US. 

Next, as part of our ticket with Heineken (you can buy a package deal), we took a tour of the canal through Lovers Canal Cruises. It is important to note that they are about a 15-minute uber from the Heineken Experience. The dock next to Heineken belongs to the Blue Boat Cruise Company. However, our tour guide from Monday told us that she prefers Lovers Cruises to Blue Boat. Because it was Christmas, there was a huge line, but we finally got into the boat. This is NOT for those who are claustrophobic. The boat was really small and they piled everyone in on top of each other. However, once I got over that, the lights on the canal were really incredible. There is an audio guide in a multitude of languages, and the tour lasts for about an hour. You go all around the city, and they show you buildings of importance. The night tours are great for those who love seeing city lights, while the day tour may be better for those who would like to see the city’s architecture. 

For dinner and candle lighting, we headed back to Chabad’s restaurant. There, we lit candles, ate sufganiyot, and had a nice dinner before our flight to Israel the next morning. 

This was such an amazing trip. I would definitely go back, and use it as a way to get to other European countries by train. Excited to post our Israel trip soon! Comment if you have any other recs for Amsterdam!

August 2019

I’m sad even writing this post because this trip turned out to be so fun and incredible, and now I have to come home. I highly recommend Montreal to anyone who can go. The city is so beautiful and there is SO much to do. I feel as if we could have spent a full week there and still had what to do. Here is our 3 night and 4 day itinerary over Labor Day Weekend, but you can bet I’ll be going back again in the future.

We are flew air Canada, but if you have the time, driving is a much cheaper option. Flying from Boston is about 45 min-1 hr. If you go in an off season, you might be able to get a good deal. We flew because limited amount of time off from work and we didn’t want to spend the day getting there

Friday Itinerary:
We arrived at 8am to our hotel, and set our bags down. We stayed in downtown, close to the McGill campus.
We were very hungry, so we first went to LeyLey’s kitch by elna in Decarie Square. The restaurant is a bit hard to find because it is located in a clinic inside a shopping mall (owned by Jews I am assuming). The service was a bit slow, but the food was good. Our favorite was the toasted Montreal bagel with smoked salmon and eggs hollandaise.

After stopping for breakfast, we decided to visit another Jewish area and pick up some of the famous cheese crowns from Boulangerie Cheskie. These are pastries filled with cheesecake filling (some of the best pastries I’ve ever had). This was about a 20 min ride from LeyLey’s. It is important to note that we did take Uber’s everywhere. Montreal has a great metro system, but it would have taken forever to get to all of these places.

Next, on our eating tour, we stopped by the Montreal Ritz for their kosher high tea at 12:30. This was one of the highlights of our trip, as it was so unique. I have never had high tea, but this was the classiest and most beautiful lunch I’ve ever had. We received a pot of tea, each, and a tower of pastries and finger sandwiches. We finished this off with a glass of champagne. After all the eating and a very early wake up, we needed a break. We rested until 4pm, when we went to the Old Port area for a river cruise on the St. Lawrence.

The Bateau Mouche is a excellent way to both get to know the city and take advantage of beautiful weather. We chose an English tour for an hour (you can do an hour and a half if you want). The weather was exceptional. If you can grab a space on the top deck overlooking the city, it is not to be missed. Major buildings and landmarks were pointed out by a tour guide on a microphone, and a waiter passed around ordered drinks.

Afterwards, we returned to our hotel to prepare for shabbos. For Friday night, we went to Chabad of McGill. Not only did they have services, but they have Friday night dinner that you can sign up for online. It was extremely convenient, however, it is important to mention that because it is a college Chabad, the crowd is likely to be mostly college students.

Saturday:

On Shabbat morning, davening started at 10:30, which was a novelty for us. After services, we stayed for Shabbat lunch with a much smaller crowd than Friday night dinner. Rabbi Shmuli and Rebbetzin Rashi Weiss were very hospitable.

After lunch, we went to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts down the block. I prepaid for tickets and we use twine to tie them to our necks (definitely dorky looking, but there is no eiruv in downtown Montreal). We saw the Thierry Mugler costume exhibit which was very well done, and the museum also houses many other great collections that are worth the stop.

One thing I would recommend checking before Shabbat is electricity in the room. Our lights were automatic and our toilet had a sensor, which meant we were in a bit of a bind. Rabbi Weiss mentioned that the Sofitel (Down the block from his Chabad house) has special Shabbat rooms that can be requested.

After Shabbat, we headed over to Seizan Sushi for dinner. The service was INCREDIBLY SLOW, so if you go on Saturday night, I would suggest grabbing their earliest reservation. The food, however, was great. Most notably, their dessert was amazing, including crème brûlée and chocolate cigars.

Sunday:

Sunday morning, we woke up early and took a bus tour to Quebec City for the day. You can arrange pickup at your hotel which is very convenient. The ride was 3 hours each way, with a 20 min rest stop break. Just be careful when grabbing coffee! Not all milk in Montreal is certified kosher.

When we arrived in Quebec City, they arrange for a guide to take you around the city and to Montmorency falls for about two hours, and then you are given 3 hours of free time to wander. We walked through the European style cobble stone streets, and listened to history about the iconic Chateau Frontenac hotel. Montmorency falls are about 20 mins drive from the main city, so we got back on the bus. The falls themselves are beautiful and very picturesque. If we had more time, we could have gotten very close, but we only had about 25 mins there. During free time, we shopped in artisan stores, watched street performers, and took the funicular up to the chateau Frontenac. Lunch included sandwiches in cooler bags arranged for by the ritz when we went for high tea.

By the end of the day, we were so tired, but that did not stop us from having a fabulous dinner.

We had a 9pm Reservation at Chiyoko, a beautiful new restaurant that was a bit out of the way. The service was excellent, as was our food. We especially enjoyed the lychee martini, sushi, vegetable tempura, steak and fries.

Monday:

By Monday, we were ready to relax. Bota Bota was the perfect place for this. Recommended to me by a friend from Montreal, Bota Bota is a boat transformed into a thermal spa in the old port area. They did not allow pictures (or even phones) in the area, and silence was encouraged. It was raining, but it made the experience even more tranquil. First you visit a hot steam room, followed by a dry sauna, and ultimately a dunk in a cold bath. Then, you can visit many of the spa’s jacuzzis and relaxation areas overlooking the water and the city. There is also the option for massages and other spa services. This was an absolute highlight for me on our trip.

Finally, before heading to the airport (where unfortunately I am writing this, as we are delayed), we stopped at Mozart Restaurant in Snowden for some legendary poutine (classic Canadian dish of fries with gravy and cheese curds), pasta and pizza.

This trip was an absolute must. Of all of the trips we have taken thus far, this was my favorite. I have been to Canada many times, but the city just gets better and better every time I visit.
What’s your favorite place to visit In Montreal? Leave me a comment!

Salem has always been a day trip my Boston family and I have enjoyed. My grandparents especially love taking the ferry there and spending the day. Upon learning that there is a Kosher restaurant, this destination became all the more appealing. 

While reminiscing about our day trips in the past, I laughed at how two summers ago, Jacob and I took the ferry to Provincetown (the tip of Cape Cod for those who are not New Englanders). We arrived at the port town with two cheese sandwiches and nothing else for the entire day. With much more practice, and more destinations under our belts, we are taking advantage of what New England has to offer (especially while the weather is this warm). 

This time, we chose to drive to Salem. From Brookline, it is about 50 minutes on the highway. If you choose to take the ferry from downtown Boston, it is about the same time, however, much less economical. 

Our first stop was Adea’s Kitchen, a kosher mediterranean restaurant on Lafayette Street. It is run by an Israeli chef and certified by Chabad of the North Shore. The options were somewhat limited, but everything we ate was phenomenal, and what’s better than not having to schlep a cooler??? My absolute favorites were the Shakshuka and the home fries. Best part- a large lunch for two people was a total of $21. Not bad in my book. 

Lunch at Adea’s Kitchen-Israeli style menu is available online

Our second stop was the Witch Museum. I had been about 10 times, but my husband wanted some background on the Salem Witch Trials, and I agreed this would be the best place. Their 30 minute presentation with dioramas and a dramatic storytelling fills you in on the history of Salem and its Witch Trials. I believe that this is truly not to be missed, especially if you plan on visiting some more witch-related sites. 

Depiction of John Proctor being Hanged at the Witch Museum

Next up, was the Witch House. Historically, Salem was ashamed of its Witch Trials, and so it tore down all remaining buildings, except this one. This is the only site directly connected to the trials that is still standing. Despite the incredible history, I did not feel that this museum was worth the time. There were about 4 rooms to visit, and not much to read on what you were seeing. There were no audio or tour guides, so we effectively paid $15 to walk around a house for 20 minutes. The House of the Seven Gables was much more impressive (more on that later). 

Some of the Witch Trials may have been held at this table (Witch House)

After the Witch House, we decided we were a bit tired and wanted to find the beach. Salem has a large beach called Wakiki beach which is supposed to be lovely. However, it is a bit further out, and $15 to park. We tried Dead Horse Beach which has free parking, and were shocked to find that there was a HUGE outdoor festival. Absolutely no parking. After circling many times, we decided to go to Collins Cove, a tiny beach off to the side. This was definitely the right choice for those who wanted easy free parking and a quick nap in the sun. 

But before settling down on the beach, we took a quick detour into town, and I found a shop called Mr. Crepe that has Vaad certified vanilla ice cream and nutella to put on top. You would not believe how hard it is to find kosher ice cream in Salem, as most of their shops are home made. I also stuck my head in a beautiful candle store called Witch City Wicks. My home now smells fantastic. 

After a quick rest, we went back to Adea’s kitchen for dinner, and then went to our tour at the House of the Seven Gables. This house was owned by Nathaniel Hawthorne (author of the House of the Seven Gables and the Scarlet Letter)’s cousin, and he bases his book on descriptions of the home. We had an amazing tour guide, and there were many decorative and impressive rooms to see that were filled with history. The highlight was a secret staircase that was put in around the 1900’s to mirror the book. 

Outside/Gardens of the House of the Seven Gables

Secret Stairwell in The House of the Seven Gables. Was created inside a chimney (to give you an idea of how narrow it is)

Finally, we made our last stop at Bewitched After Dark Tours. What I loved about this was that there were no spooky ghost stories, just a guide who had grown up in Salem and knew all the ins and outs. Additionally, for those worried about safety, there was an armed security guard with us the entire time. Jeff, our tour guide, took us through all of Salem, pointing out sites that did not just have to do with the trials. He also noted the town’s culture, and how it looks around October. The one bummer was that 30 minutes out of this 2 hr tour was spent in a cemetery. For Cohanim (like my husband), this means standing outside and waiting around while the rest of the tour is filled in on cool history. Additionally, if you have small children, this may not be the tour for you, as it is later in the day (7pm-9pm), and requires much walking and standing. However, they do have a 3pm tour on some Sunday’s. The city was lit up and beautiful at night, and we are so glad we were able to experience it.

Beginning of the tour when it was still light

I am originally from Westchester, NY, although you might not know it. I have been living in the Boston area for the past 5 years and absolutely love it. Because many Jews like to come to Boston from NY as a quick trip, I have compiled a huge itinerary. Unfortunately, no pictures because these are activities and places I have visited throughout my entire lifetime. My extended family lives here, so I spent my childhood coming here multiple times a year. I hope you find this itinerary of my hometown helpful (and stay tuned for so many more cities that will be featured this year!)

~Eat Pray Travel- Danielle

My Favorite things to do in Boston:

-Boston Harbor Cruises

-State house tour is cool if you like history and cool architecture

-Tazo chocolate factory

-Sam Adams brewery

-Freedom trail

-Faneuil hall area

-Top of the hub (also mentioned in beer in and drinks)

-Science museum (especially IMAX dome)

-Harvard museums and campus

-Day trips to some of my favorites- Salem (will eventually make a whole post on a kosher itinerary for this), the Cape, and Nantasket beach

-For night time activities, everything closes early. My favorites that stay open a bit later include: the clay room in Brookline, Board game café in Brookline, Lawn on D (in the Seaport area), and the beer and drinks listed below

-coffee at an Italian café in north end

-Museum of fine arts (doesn’t hold a candle to the met in NY, but they have some really lovely art and outdoor grounds for nice days)

Tourist classics:

-New England Aquarium

-Boston common and/or public garden

-Old State House

-Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

-Boston Children’s Museum

-Franklin Park Zoo

-Boston Harbor Islands

-Boston Tea Party Ships and Museum

-Swan Boats

-Shopping on Newbury St.

-Duck tour (doesn’t have bathrooms so that’s a “no” for me, but great for kids)

-Fenway Park tour and/or game

-Boston Theatre District

Quirky things to do:

Museum of Bad Art

Warren Anatomical Museum

Adult Night at LEGOLAND in Somerville

Beer and drinks:

-Top of the hub

-Trillium beer garden (Rowes wharf)

-Publick house (Brookline)

So many more because the majority of night life in Boston revolves around drinking. The Fenway area has so many up and coming bars and sports bars that are great to check out.

Kosher food: I have ranked based on my own tastes, but the stars are definitely up to personal opinion

Milk street café (closed on weekends and past 3pm on week days) (4 star)- only Kosher restaurant in Boston proper

In Brookline:

-Vittorios (3 star)

-Pure cold press (4 star)

-Rami’s (3 star)

-Jerusalem Pita Grill (2 star)

-JP licks ice cream (5 star)

-Kupel’s Bakery (4 star)

-Café eilat (3.5 star)

-Kosher wok (3.5 star)

-Butcherie kosher market has take out options

-Catering by Andrew (5 stars)-is an amazing Kosher caterer who can help you get food for Shabbos or if you have to go to a business event at a non-kosher restaurant

Shuls and where to stay:

-Beis Pinchas (Bostoner) and Beth Avraham (Sephardi)- would have to be put up, or go to B and B in area

-NAM/Kollel in Brighton- would have to be put up, or go to B and B in area

-Young Israel of Brookline- has access to Marriot Courtyard and Holiday Inn

-Maimonides- walkable from Marriot Courtyard, but not ideal

-Multiple Chabad’s in the area (Chabad on St. Paul street is walkable from Marriot Courtyard and Holiday Inn)

-Chabad of Boston- weekly Shabbat services and meals in Taj Hotel (can register online)

If you are not staying for Shabbos, the options for hotels and air B and B’s are ENDLESS

Transit:

-T is difficult, but cheap. A pass could make life easier

-Uber in Boston is readily available

-Can get to Boston easily via car, train, bus or plane (comparing these prices is always a good idea)

Let me know if I missed any of your favorite Boston activities!

The best thing I can recommend for travel is that one not only consult travel guides and online resources, but also their friends and family who have been where they are going. In my case, I decided on this last minute trip to Newport the day before Memorial Day, but luckily, I knew exactly who to call. My aunt loves to travel to Newport every summer, and so she has her absolute favorite picks in terms of beaches and activities. We mostly followed her itinerary, but added a few of our own favorites to the mix. I hope this inspires you all to check it out, especially with a fairly recent kosher restaurant available!

For Bostonians, Newport is a lovely weekend trip as it is only an hour and twenty minutes in the car. This means no expensive planes or trains, although public transit is available if you do not have a car. I would, however, recommend taking your car so you can get around upon arrival. There was ample space for parking, and we found the car to be a very valuable asset.

Our first stop was Root on Broadway, a vegan restaurant certified by Rabbi Marc Mandel of the Touro Synagogue in Newport. We are usually skeptical of vegan restaurants with hashkachot, but I consulted a local Rabbi who said this one seemed fine (Rabbi Mandel only certifies one kosher restaurant in the entire state, so there must be a good reason!). Please consult your own local Rabbi before going to a restaurant with a hashkacha with which you are unfamiliar. Not only was their food delicious, but there was a wonderful selection and it meant that I did not have to schlep a cooler full of lunch with us! We had the avocado toast, flamingo smoothie, pizza rolls, and Greek Goddess grain bowl. All was incredible and we were very full by the end of our lunch. Here is their website: https://rootonbroadway.com/

Next, we went to Third Beach in Middleton, RI. It was 12 minute drive from Newport proper, and so it was somewhat quieter than the Newport beaches. Parking is $25 a day on weekends, and $15 on weekdays (and you can go in and out of the lot as much as you like). Credit for this recommendation goes to my aunt who told us it would be a bit quieter, although not much surf. The weather was absolutely perfect, though the water was a bit cold. We really enjoyed soaking in the sun and dipping our feet in the water. However, we did forget towels, which we were luckily able to pick up at CVS near Root on Broadway. Water bottles, sunglasses, and sunscreen were also really important to bring to prevent dehydration and unhealthy sun exposure. Just a tip-change before you get there if you do not like porto-potties. The only changing facilities on that beach are porto-potties and (call me a snob, but) that’s not my jam.

Our next stop was the Chanler Hotel on the cliff walk. If you would like to stay at this hotel, it is $1,000 a night (YIKES), but we were there just for some drinks and a lovely view of the Cliff Walk. We ordered ritzy looking pear martinis and enjoyed an incredible view of the Cliff Walk, which we then explored afterwards. Their valet parking was free, and their bathrooms super clean (bonus if you are looking to change before the beach). Everyone was so accommodating and polite, and the hotel was absolutely incredible.

After a beautiful hour by the Cliff Walk, we decided to grab some Ben and Jerry’s (because why not), and then head on over to the Breakers. Newport is famous for its beautiful mansions, but Jacob said that the Breakers was known to be the most breathtaking one. Boy, was he right. We loved the audio guided self-tour because it is great for impatient people like me who like to listen to the information, and skip through what is disinteresting to them. It provided just the right amount of background for what we were seeing, and took only about 1 hour. The actual house was not to be believed, with beautiful architecture, attention to detail, and views of the sea. My favorite rooms included the foyer and the kitchen. This Vanderbilt home is an absolute must-see.

Note: The Touro Synagogue is a beautiful place to visit, but we had seen it so many times before, we did not return on this particular trip.

By the end of the day, I was wiped, but wanted to grab one more hour by the ocean. We went back to Third Beach for some more time in the sun, and then headed on home. On our way back, a little farm called Sweet Berry Farm caught my eye. We were a week too early for fresh strawberries, but if you are thinking of going during the mid-summer or fall seasons, they have berry or apple and pumpkin picking available, respectively. I would be so excited to come back and pick out some apples once the fall rolls around.

Where should we travel next? Send me a comment with your favorite itinerary!

~Eat, Pray, Travel!

Danielle

Creating an itinerary and executing your trip details

Before going anywhere, I check flight availability and price. This is a determining factor in how I go anywhere, or whether I go anywhere. My favorite site for this is Kayak.com, and I have usually found that domestically (within the USA), Jetblue tends to have the best prices, and also a good points program. I know some people love Skyscanner as well. The reason I love Kayak is because they break every permutation of flight down for you, such as time, date, class, and whether they predict it is a good time to buy.

Additionally, I love downloading the airline app beforehand so that I can keep my boarding pass on my smartphone (so it doesn’t get lost in my bag), can check flight information, and receive updates. Furthermore, the best money I ever spent was enrolling in TSA Precheck. It is $85 a person, and lasts for 5 years. For someone who flies as frequently as I do, this is a lifesaver. It has cut down on those horrible airport lines tenfold. Please note, however, the international version is much more expensive, and includes a much more thorough background check. Only worth it if you travel abroad very frequently.

Once I have nailed down my flights, I book my hotels. I really don’t like to buy from third party websites, unless there is some SUPER deal happening. This is true for flights as well. The reason is because I know when I buy directly from the company, they are responsible for providing me with a service. Whereas with budget websites, they will sometimes overbook a flight or hotel and hope that someone cancels so that they can oversell. I love hotels with great rewards programs such as Hilton and Dan (in Israel). You can sign up for free, and may find perks such as upgrades to the executive floor, free dinners, or points towards your next vacation. I also base my hotel purchases on proximity to Jewish life (ie. food, shuls, etc.) For example, when booking my honeymoon to Amsterdam, I made sure I was at least close to the kosher food, and then picked a hotel based on that area. Once you have decided on your area, you can compare prices between hotels. Sometimes (especially internationally), if you go too cheap, you will not like what you find. In the US, you can sometimes get by with a less nice hotel and not expect dirt, mold etc. in the room. However, abroad is a bit more tricky. Just be aware of what you are buying and ALWAYS read reviews (my mom loves oyster.com). If you are having a hard time finding a hotel within budget that is not gross, you can also turn to airBNB for options.

Once you have your flights and hotels booked, you are ready to go. But, if you are a planner like me, you like to have your activities laid out and booked before you arrive. I like to buy an old fashioned travel guide and read it on shabbat for ideas. I also look at tourism websites and blogs to see what might interest me, and how I might get there from my hotel either using public transit or Uber. The good thing about Uber abroad is that it automatically transfers to your credit card, without you having to change more money into the local currency. However, be aware that your credit card may charge you an extra fee for transferring currency. Another drawback is that your driver may not know English, so if he/she goes to the wrong location, it may be difficult to find them. Public transit (especially in Europe) is super efficient and usually has many stops. I would look into investing in a metro pass for the time you are away.

Next, think about food. I like to map out the day based on where we can get kosher food. If we are making an excursion (ie. Versailles from Paris) where there is sure to be no kosher food, I think about making sandwiches or taking a cooler with food I brought, or purchased from a local kosher store. Frequently, the kosher food is mostly in one neighborhood, such as Golders Green in London, or the Jewish Ghetto in Rome. Keep this in mind when booking hotels and planning daily activities. When my family went to Rome, we would eat breakfast in our hotel (using the Kosher list and finding prepackaged food. Also, shout out to Hotel Monte Cenci by the Ghetto which can order kosher cakes and eggs from nearby restaurants and serve it to you on their rooftop breakfast area), then bring some food with us during our daily activities, and end up back in the Ghetto for dinner. This may work for some, but others hate to prepare food on vacation. These people may want to stay closer to the Kosher area when planning their day.

Lastly, think about shuls. If you are going for Shabbat, find a hotel that is in walking distance from a shul. Many Jewish communities will have a shul website with information about hotels. Another thing to consider is that some shuls abroad will make you check in with your passport before shabbat, so they can check you out for security purposes. Look into it before you go. Additionally, look into Eiruvs. In large Jewish communities in the US, we take Eiruvs for granted, but in some big cities abroad, they are not halachik, or do not exist. Chabad is a great resource for this type of planning all over the world. My family had a wonderful experience with Chabad of Puerto Rico, and picked one of the hotels close to them (pro tip-they also deliver kosher food to these hotels). Additionally, when planning our mini-moon to Montreal, my soon to be husband and I were in touch with Chabad of the Old Port, who advised us of shabbat meals, minyan times, and kosher food access. They also brought up important issues such as key cards on shabbat. Many hotels do not provide manual keys, but they will have someone from the front desk help you upstairs. Also, think about check out times. If you are in a hotel for shabbat, the checkout time may be in the morning. This is problematic if you want a place to put your luggage, or would like a shabbos nap (or even just to rest in your room). Some hotels will let you store your luggage in a special storage room, but checkout could be tricky if you need to sign anything.

Packing

When packing for a trip, I usually divide everything into carry on and checked luggage if I am going on a long vacation. Otherwise, I try to keep everything carry on (I have had bad experiences with lost luggage!), but divided into a suitcase and a large “personal item” bag. I find that this large bag is best when pushed under the seat in front of you, because it holds all of those things you may need during the flight. Here is a list of my in flight must haves:

1. Afrin (for those who get sinus pain during descent, as I do)
2. A sweatshirt if you get cold (and a blanket and neck pillow if you do not think those will be provided for you. I know I had a not so pleasant surprise upon discovering JetBlue charges $5 for a thin blanket)
3. Socks (if you need to take your shoes off due to discomfort or swelling (or in the airport for security), coming from a public health student- DON’T STEP ON THOSE FLOORS (GROSS)!
4. Visine for dry eyes- the plane has some of the driest air, so if you are a contacts wearer, I would skip those for a flight and opt for glasses instead. You will thank yourself later.
5. Purell or antibacterial wipes- everything on that airplane is COVERED in germs. Help yourself stay healthy by wiping down surfaces, and frequently cleaning your hands in the airport and on the plane.
6. Snacks- important for families especially, but also, if your flight does not have kosher food (or it is limited), this is a must!
7. Medications and valuables- these should stay with you just in case the airline loses your luggage! This includes eyeglasses and dental appliances that would take a long time to replace.
8. Lip balm, moisturizer and cuticle oil- I find that I get super dry on the plane, and despite influencer advice to wear a sheet mask on a plane, it will dry you out (watch @mixedmakeup on youtube, she will do a great job explaining this). Instead, use creams that will keep you moisturized.
9. Books and other sorts of entertainment
10. Wireless headphones- before I had these I did not understand the hype, but when I got them I truly noticed a difference. A must have if you absolutely hate having your headphones ripped out of your ears every time someone needs to get by your seat to use the restroom.
11. Gum- also good for those with sinus pressure, but also keeps your mouth from feeling yuck on the flight
12. Chargers- those of us who use our phones, laptops and tablets on the plane know the frustration of running out of charge during a flight. For even more backup, bring a battery pack in case the plane does not have outlets.
13. Pens- you just never know when you might need one, and also they may ask you to fill out a declaration form if you are headed to another country
14. Baby wipes, deodorant and dry shampoo- if you are someone who cannot go a day without showering, a long flight is the worst. In a pinch, these products can help you feel better until you reach your final destination which (hopefully) has a shower. Also good for those types of travelers who like to just get off the plane and immediately start touring.

Next, for your packed luggage, think about the weather, how many days you are staying, and the types of activities you will be doing. My most important step is my packing list. I look online for packing lists that may be similar to what I need, but usually I just think about the three factors above. Additionally, if you are traveling over shabbat, taking a swim, or taking a hike, you may need to pack special items. My must haves in terms of shoes are comfortable sneakers or keds, and a pair of flip flops.

A great tip I learned from my grandmother (queen of all packing and travel) is to get a rolling bag with an expansion option in the front, and four wheels for easy maneuvering in the airport. Test out the bag zippers in the store (TJ Maxx has some incredible deals on good quality luggage). Roll what you can, and try to pack your cosmetics in small travel sizes. Your local pharmacy will have some overpriced travel size items (which I sometimes cannot resist), but usually, I just take travel size containers and scoop my products into those. For those curly haired girls out there (like me), bring your own conditioner, as hotel conditioner is usually bad, and the water abroad could be harsher or have different minerals in it. If you want to know anything about what makeup to pack while traveling, send me a message in the contact page, and I will answer to the best of my ability. In addition to loving travel, I love makeup, and have used so many different products while traveling.

I hope this was helpful, and please do not hesitate to message me with feedback! I love hearing your thoughts!

~Eat Pray Travel

Thanks for reading my blog! Please don’t hesitate to contact me with any travel questions you might have. Everything I write here is my own opinion. Additionally, I identify as Modern Orthodox Jewish, so what I may find acceptable for kosher may not work for everyone (for example, I am not Cholov Yisroel). Follow me and my journeys across the world as a newly wed, as I navigate how to travel while frum.

Eat Pray Travel!- Danielle Lebowitz Kampler